On the Level
by Terry Meany
In the May issue of this magazine, Rosemary Bosque, San Francisco’s chief housing inspector, was asked about the biggest complaints she receives throughout the year. “Moisture retention is number one,” she said, stemming, in large part, from improperly vented clothes dryers as well as a lack of ventilation. Let’s face it, there was enough rain this past winter to float Noah’s Ark, and no one but the hardiest back-to-nature individual was going to throw open the windows and embrace the world in some misguided attempt to feel one with the earth.
Where does all this moisture come from? From us, for one thing—each of us exhales a liter or more of moisture every day. Add long showers (longer still if you, and not the tenant, are paying for the hot water), boiling pasta and indoor plants, and your units won’t exactly rival the tropics for dampness, but they won’t be giving Death Valley a run for its money in a dryness contest, either.
We need some relative humidity—around 50% is good for us and not good for most molds and mites—for personal comfort. Beyond that, you need to get it out of your buildings so it can eventually turn into clouds as nature intended. Otherwise, it gets mad and takes it out on you in the form of mildew, molds, and paint and wood damage. Every time interior moisture hits a cold window, especially an old, single-pane wood window, it condenses into water and drips and collects where the lower edge of the glass meets the sash, lifting the paint and, if not addressed, eventually causing the wood to rot. Even if you have metal windows, the water can drip down onto the wood stool—the interior version of a sill—and leave a delightful puddle on it.
How do you economically keep the moisture controlled when you have myriad tenants, all of whom have different lifestyles? Some will keep the heat cranked up and the windows cracked open all winter long; others will keep the heat down, the windows locked shut, and take hot, steamy showers to get warm, convinced they are showing the utility company who’s boss, all the while establishing the perfect storm for mold and mildew. But don’t worry; you have a few options.
For one, you must provide your tenants with proper ventilation. At a minimum, this means functioning windows. In addition, ventilation fans in the kitchen and bathrooms are a real plus and have been mandatory in new construction for years. Even if you provide the means, you can’t mandate their usage, although you can educate your tenants that not only is proper ventilation in their own best interest from a health standpoint, but also from a lease standpoint. Make it extremely clear in your lease agreement that any moisture-related damage that could have been avoided by regular use of fans and open windows is the tenant’s problem, not yours.
I’ve mentioned ventilation fans in past columns and emphasize once again it isn’t worth installing small-capacity fans. The idea is to get the moisture out fast; the higher the CFM—cubic feet per minute—rating the better. The installation costs for labor are about the same regardless of the fan, although those with a high CFM rating will require larger duct work unless the fan is vented directly through an exterior wall. If an entire unit has moisture problems, an alternative to fans, although not an especially good one, is to provide the tenants with a dehumidifier. This, too, assumes a willingness to actually turn it on, and if a tenant is paying the electrical bill, this could be a tough sell. One interesting idea is to install an all-house ventilation system on a house circuit, that is, a circuit off the owner’s meter and entrance panel, and control it by a timer. It’s not as good a solution as direct room fans in bathrooms and kitchens, but it helps solve the problem.
Most tenants won’t be exuberantly opening their windows in the winter, but they should be able to open them in warmer weather. Windows in San Francisco can be divided into three main categories: original wood windows; aluminum or metal “upgrades” in older buildings, or original windows in construction from the 1950s onward; and vinyl replacements and vinyl in new construction
After repairing thousands of wood windows, I can safely say few are beyond repair and most can be made operable with a modest effort and everyday tools. Most older wood windows are double-hung: the lower sash slides up and the upper sash slides down via ropes attached to sash weights. The sashes often get painted shut or the ropes break and if the lower sashes open at all, they’re held up with books or beer bottles. It’s much safer for pedestrians below if you replace the ropes and let some fresh air in and moist air out. There is only one book I can recommend because there’s only one that I know of written on the subject of wood-window repair and that’s Working Windows: A Guide to the Repair and Restoration of Wood Windows (Lyons Press), by yours truly. Of course, this looks like a shamefully cheap ploy to sell a few more copies, but a $15 investment can save you hundreds, if not thousands, in window repairs, so I’ll chance readers’ boos and mention my book.
Basic aluminum windows from the 1950s do not have the insulation properties of older wood windows. All things being equal, aluminum windows will collect more condensation than wood windows. The aluminum can become tarnished and even pitted after years of exposure. Deep cleaning requires automotive paste cleaner or Naval Jelly, which contains phosphoric acid (wear gloves!) to remove corrosion. Use bronze wool in conjunction with any paste cleaners or solvent-type car waxes because the bronze won’t rust, unlike any strands of regular steel wool that might get left behind during cleaning. Anodized aluminum should only be washed with a mild soap and warm water. After cleaning either type of aluminum window, follow up with a coat of automobile wax. Be sure any tracks are thoroughly cleaned and waxed for easier operation.
Cleaning assures your windows will move more easily, but what if you need to replace broken or missing hardware from your metal windows? For that hard-to-find latch, balance or crank for a more contemporary window, contact Blaine Window Hardware at 800-678-1919 or www.blainewindow.com. They carry thousands of odd parts that can save you the trouble of replacing an entire window for want of a simplex cam handle or other Byzantine piece of hardware.
Vinyl windows are the standard today for new window installations, even on expensive residences. They are fairly maintenance free, but it’s a good idea to clean the tracks periodically with liquid automotive wax/cleaner mix. This will not only clean the tracks, but also eliminate most friction hindering the sash from easily opening or closing. Apply with very fine steel or bronze wool and wipe off any residue.
Aside from ventilation, you need operating windows for egress in case of a fire and just for quality of life on a warm, breezy day. Fix them and it’s one less complaint from your tenants.
The opinions expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the viewpoint of SFAA or the San Francisco Apartment Magazine. Terry Meany is a former contractor and landlord. He is cost-conscious but not cheap and knows deferred maintenance always costs more in the end. He can be reached at tfmeany@msn.com. Copyright © 2006 by the San Francisco Apartment Magazine. All rights reserved.